#58 Beyond Limits: Steve McClure’s Unorthodox Methods, Peak Performance at 54, What Causes Decline, (and, the Best Fixes for Long-Term Success)

Steve McClure is one of Britain’s most accomplished rock climbers, and at 54, still continuing to climb at an elite level, defying the notion that performance inevitably drops with age. We dive into his unconventional training philosophy, how he balances pushing his physical limits with enjoying family life (and even the occasional late-night party), and why he believes that loving the process of climbing is the best key to long-term success.

About Steve McClure

• British Climbing Icon: Known for first ascents of some of the UK’s hardest sport routes, including “Rainman” (Malham Cove).
• Lifetime of Experience: Began climbing at age two or three with his parents, leading to an all-round approach—sport, trad, bouldering, and big walls.
• Author of Beyond Limits:  Details his philosophies, early expeditions, and the mindset shifts that helped him exceed every boundary he believed he had. This is one of my all time favorite books! Buy it here! 
• Family Man & Mentor: Balances fatherhood, route-setting, and coaching, all while still climbing at the highest levels.

What You’ll Learn

1. Why “Failing” Can Be a Good Thing
   Steve explains how falling off a project is a chance to “get more attempts,” keeping the process fun rather than frustrating.
2. Unstructured Training for Older Climbers
   While he’s never stuck to rigid periodized programs, Steve’s focus on real-world climbing, targeted strength work, and plenty of active recovery has kept him sending hard.
3. Embracing the Three Pillars
   Steve breaks down how technique, mental game, and strength are equally crucial. Older athletes often excel in technique and mindset, so bridging minor strength gaps can keep performance levels high.
4. The Power of Good Habits (Even Quirky Ones!)
   From his no-milk, chocolate-in-granola breakfast to dancing past midnight, Steve’s lifestyle reflects a balance between discipline and enjoyment—he does what keeps him energized without sacrificing fun.
5. Balancing Family and Epic Goals
   Steve shares how climbing with his kids or taking on smaller outdoor adventures keeps the spark alive. He believes maintaining varied styles and intensities of climbing can help avoid burnout.
6. What Really Causes Performance Drop-Offs
   Tune in for Steve’s insights on why many climbers plateau—often due to too much focus on one aspect of training (e. g., pure strength) and neglect of mental or technical skills.
7. Practical Fixes for Staying on Your Game
   Discover actionable tips—like identifying your weakest link (finger strength? dynamic movement? fear of falling?)—and systematically addressing it in short, focused sessions.

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Transcript

Steve McClure

INTRO:

Welcome back to the Ageless Athlete series! Today, we’re hearing from Steve McClure, one of the most iconic rock climbers to ever emerge from the UK. I’ve followed Steve’s climbing career with avid interest for years—long before I even picked up his memoir, Beyond Limits. But reading that book opened my eyes to an entirely different side of him: the homegrown training habits, the unorthodox breakfast choices (sorry, milk, it’s chocolate chunks and granola!), and a mindset that actually relishes “failing” on a route because it means getting to try again. Even more interesting is Steve’s ability to juggle pushing athletic boundaries with raising a family and squeezing in the occasional late-night party—all without losing that infectious enthusiasm for the outdoors.

What makes Steve’s story so relevant for anyone—climbers or not—is how he views longevity and progression. He’s refreshingly frank that he’s never been big on periodized programs or obsessively structured workouts; yet here he is, still operating near the cutting edge of the sport after decades of hard climbing. His real secret sauce? Balancing training with genuine curiosity, a willingness to adapt over time, and a refusal to sacrifice the simple joy of each climbing day. If that resonates with you, stay tuned: from remote Greenland big walls to iconic British test pieces like “Rainman,” Steve’s insights underscore that often, loving the process is the most powerful way to keep your passion alive, no matter how life changes around you. Let’s jump right in!

QUESTIONS:

Opening:

Book:

1. You’ve climbed all over the world, from remote cliffs to famous crags. Is there one location or moment that still takes your breath away when you think about it?
2. Your memoir Beyond Limits is one of my favorite climbing books. Your book is called Beyond Limits, which is such a powerful title. How did you come up with it, and what does it mean to you personally in the context of your climbing journey and life as a whole?"
3.  It’s been a long time since I read that book but one of the pieces I cherish are your early travels around the world. The book starts off with you stumbling into climbing in Tonsai while on our travels. I also visited Thailand, it’s been 20 years, but stil after your visit. I’m curious are there are any lessons from those early travels that still inform you how you approach climbing and even life?

Climbing. 

1. One thing that I notice about the way you approach climbing, is that you seem to equally relish cutting edge difficult climbs with simply enjoying easier routes for pure love of movement 
   1. "Your joy for climbing, no matter the grade, is something so many climbers struggle to maintain. When you’re on an easy route, what keeps you engaged and stoked? How do you approach those days differently from projecting a hard climb?"
2.  While you have traveled all zzver the world to climb, some of your hardest and most iconic ascents have happened closer to home. "Rainman (9b) is one of your most iconic routes, and it took years to piece together. 
   1. Can you describe this route and what made it, for it’s time one of the most challenging routes in the world?
   2. Can you talk about your approach to complete this route, and how you may have had to make key changes in the way you trained and projected?
   3. The mental game can be so complex. How do you approach the headspace of projecting a hard route, like Rainman? Esp, one where you’ve failed over and over again, and somehow manage to come out on top
   4. What’s one key lesson that journey taught you—not just about climbing, but about yourself?"

5. Unique Adventures

• "Climbing has taken you to so many unique places. Is there a route or a crag where the experience was as much about the environment or culture as the climb itself?"
• "You’ve climbed on all sorts of rock types across the world. Is there one rock type or climbing style you wish you were better at, even after all these years?"

4. Insights for Hardcore Climbers

• "You’ve repeated some of the most iconic routes in the UK, like Hubble. With modern training methods, do you think routes like these are easier to approach now, or do they retain their mystique?"
• "When working on first ascents, how much do you rely on visualization and problem-solving off the wall versus just getting on and figuring it out? Do you have a process you swear by?"

1. Lattice Coaching and Evolving Training

• "You’ve been training yourself for decades, so I was curious to hear you’ve joined Lattice Coaching. What prompted that decision, and what have you learned so far that’s surprised you?"
• "As someone who’s constantly evolving, how do you balance structured training programs like Lattice with the freedom to climb purely for joy?"
   
  • Do you train in blocks with structured indoor training in between trips?
•  

2. Adapting Training with Age

• "Climbing is such a physically demanding sport, but you’ve managed to stay at the top for decades. How has your training evolved as you’ve gotten older?"
• "What adjustments have you made to avoid injuries and maintain strength and flexibility over the years?"
• "Many climbers burn out chasing grades or getting injured. What do you think is the secret to staying physically and mentally engaged with climbing for the long haul?"
• "Looking back on your career, is there anything you wish you’d done differently in terms of training or taking care of your body?"
• "Finally, when you think about the future, what motivates you to keep climbing hard and exploring your limits?"

3. Nutrition and Recovery

• "Climbers often overlook the role of diet in performance. How do you approach nutrition, and have your habits changed as you’ve gotten older?"
• "Recovery becomes more important with age. What’s your go-to recovery routine after a tough project or a hard training day?"

8. Closing with a Personal Touch

• "Climbing has been such a defining part of your life. If you had to distill your philosophy on climbing into a sentence, what would it be?"
• "Finally, for climbers listening who’ve admired your career for years, what’s one thing they probably don’t know about you that might surprise them?"

• Shoulder shrugs
• Cable pulls - scapular shrugs
• Smaller uslc

INTRODUCTIONS:

• Neil Gresham
• Emma Twyford 
• James Pearson